Are you determined to own a superb suit made from authentic Italian wool, but worried youāll get tricked by fake fabric or scams in the market? Counterfeit menās suit fabrics are a growing global problem, plaguing not just India, but classic tailoring hubs like Hong Kong, Europe, and the US. Hereās how to sidestep fabric fraud, spot fake suit materials, and ensure you always get the quality you pay for.
Why Are Fake Suit Fabrics So Common?
Recently, a couple visited us after being lured by “super 150s Italian fabrics” at a high-end Mumbai tailor. They wanted us to source that exact fabric. But a quick investigation revealed the so-called āItalianā fabric was nothing more than a fine polyester viscose rayon blend, but priced higher than genuine wool cloth from prestigious mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Scabal or Zegna.
Unfortunately, this isnāt rare. Around the world, stores stock counterfeit ādesignerā suit fabrics, many produced in China, often indistinguishable by sight or touch. Itās a lucrative scam because thereās no simple way for customers to confirm fabric authenticity on the spot.
ā How to Identify Genuine Suit Fabric
1.Ā Check the Selvedge for Branding

The most reliable way to spot authentic fabric is by inspecting the selvedge, the woven edge running along the side. Genuine cloth from mills like Raymond (India) or Zegna (Italy) always features continuous branding, counts, or certification details. Fake fabrics usually have plain stitches or blank selvedge.
Pro Tip:Ā If your tailor sources the fabric, ask to see the selvedge during your first fitting. Beware if you only see two plain white lines and no brand info.
2.Ā Assess Price vs. Quality
If a store offers āpremiumā or ādesignerā wool fabric at an unusually low (or, oddly, much higher) price than reputable brands, itās a red flag.
3. Use Your SensesāBut Donāt Rely Solely On Them
Sometimes the feel or the drape reveals polyester, but high-quality fakes are often very convincing by hand.
4. Ask For Brand Collaterals
Most Italian Mills offer branding labels or other collateral to assist clients in making the right choices. Ask for those.


š Common Suit Fabric Scams to Watch Out For
- Fake Branding Claims: Fabric is sold as “Italian” or “English wool” without real mill proof.
- Counterfeits Labeled as Superfine: Blends or synthetics marketed as “Super 150s” or higher wool counts.
- No Selvedge Branding: Mills always include their name and specs on the selvedge for a reason.
- Unrealistic Prices: If it feels too good to be true, it probably isāon either end of the price spectrum.
š Essential Checklist: How to Avoid Suit Fabric Fraud
- Buy only from trusted, well-reviewed sellers or established boutiques.
- Always examine the fabric selvedge for brand info, especially with premium or imported cloth.
- Ask for the fabric to be shown at your first fitting if your tailor sources it.
- Be wary of high-pressure pitches and shops that wonāt share brand or certification details.
- When in doubt, seek advice from a reputable stylist or clothier before finalizing your purchase.
Why Itās Critical To Get Authentic Suit Fabric
- Value for Money: Genuine superfine wool is a major investmentāyou deserve the real thing.
- Reputation: Discovering youāve been duped with a fake after purchase is embarrassing and frustrating.
- Longevity and Looks: The primary purpose of a suit is to enhance your stature! Polyester or blends will not last or wear like real wool.
ā Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How do I spot fake Italian suit fabric in India?
A: Always check for continuous selvedge branding with mill detailsāavoid shops offering high-end wool without proof.
Q: Are selvedge markings always a guarantee of authenticity?
A: Not foolproof, but genuine brands never leave the selvedge blank and always include detailed specs.
Q: Whatās the biggest red flag for counterfeit suit fabric?
A: Missing or generic selvedge, no paperwork, and prices that don’t match market value.
Final Thoughts: Protect Yourself When Buying Suit Fabric
Donāt risk your investment or your confidence. Counterfeit suit fabric scams are rampant but avoidable if you know the warning signs. Follow the guidelines above and never hesitate to ask questions or demand proof. For more advice, leave a comment or reach out to our stylistsāweāre happy to help you buy only the best in menās suiting.
Looking for more? See our complete guides on How to Buy a Suit and fabric care to protect your investment.

Thank you for posting this helpful blog on how to buy quality men’s suit fabric. It is important to verify the texture and quality of a cloth before investing on it. This blog will serve as a handy guide for buying good quality suit fabric. Please keep on sharing more helpful tips and suggestions in the upcoming posts.
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Namaste.
Read the article. Informative with years of experience.
The suit is not a regular for many people. They require it for very few occasions. Hence do not want to invest much into it. Still wish to look at their best in a suit.
Can you suggest something for such people?